Shakertown® Craftsman™ Shingle Panel

concealed nailing for 1-course, 7" and 4-1/2" exposure Craftsman panel

Shakertown® Craftsman panels may be applied:

General.

Shakertown's Craftsman panels may be applied over solid nailable sheathing, over insulative board and over spaced sheathing. The shingle panels may be applied to slight curves over solid nailable sheathing provided that each shingle on the panel is nailed with two fasteners 3/4" from each edge, 3/4" to 1" from the top.

Mansard Application

The Craftsman panels may be applied on mansards of at least 20/12 pitch (60°) over ASTM Type 30 building paper, where codes permit.

Fasteners.

Shakertown recommends using a corrosion resistant (hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel) 1-3/4" roofing nail for blind nailing. Nails should always be of sufficient length to penetrate the studs a minimum 3/4". Special applications or high wind loads may require optional fasteners. Power nailing is permitted, but care should be taken to set the head flush with the panel. Sinking the heads into the siding panels can affect the long-term performance of the siding. Staples are not recommended.

Corners.

On outside corners use the Shakertown Craftsman corners (see Technical Bulletin 1103) or other corner boards. For inside corners 2X2 cedar is commonly used. (Note: The Shakertown Craftsman shingle panels come 3/4" to 7/8" from the surface of the sheathing. We recommend that all trim and corner boards be a minimum 1" thick.)

1102

1. Staining.

The Shakertown Craftsman panel is available natural, primed or pre-finished all sides. Panels can also be pre-stained on the job site. (Refer to Technical Bulletin 4001, Stains and Finishes.)

2. Weather Barrier.

Apply a suitable weather-resistive barrier, such as type 15 felt or better, in accordance with local code requirements. Use a two-inch head lap and six-inch end lap when fastening barrier.

3. Level Line.

Establish a level line around building. Use a transit, water level or level line and string. Mark the level line about four feet off the ground or at any convenient height. Then simply measure down from the level line to position the first siding course. Begin by nailing a 3/8" x 1" furring strip along the bottom of the house. Keep siding at least 6" from the ground.

4. Flashing.

Proper flashing and caulking are essential. Keep the bottom edge of panels a minimum 1/4" above flashing ledge. At roof junctures, siding should be a minimum 1" above roofing material. Refer to your local building code for stricter guidelines. (Refer to Technical Bulletin 1005, Flashing Details.)

5. Alignment.

Nail a corner in place as alignment. (If you are not using our prefabricated corners, align panel ends with corner stud or corner board.) Be sure that the corner is plumb in both directions. Install the first course of siding. The bottom of each panel sits on top of the previous panel so each course goes up easily, maintaining a consistent exposure. Trim the over-lap of the panel's left end or the under-lap on the panel's right end when butting to window and door trim or corners.

6. Nailing.

Shakertown recommends a corrosion-resistant (hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel) 1-3/4" roofing nail. A pneumatic nail gun will speed up application. Position nails at the studs. Nail on or below the nailing line which is 7/8" from the top edge of the 7" exposure panels and 3/4" from the top edge of the 4-1/2" exposure panel. Always put one nail 1/2" from the ends of each panel. If the panel ends miss a stud, place three nails approximately 1" apart at the panel end. Nail each course of panels from one end to the other, maximum 16" on center. Never nail from both ends toward the middle. Do not force panels into place.

7. First Course.

Nail up the first course of siding. Take care that the first course is perfectly straight and level. Allow 1/16" spacing at overlocking end joints to allow for expansion. Allow 1/8" spacing where panels butt against windows and doors, caulk these joints with non-hardening caulking compound.

8. Subsequent Courses.

Each course of panels will automatically align when laid up. Level should be checked occasionally. Panel end joints should be offset 16 or 24 inches from previous courses.

9. Cutting.

When it comes time to cut a panel, use a portable circular saw and place the panel face down to prevent splintering. Make sure the cut is square. You may cut several panels at once to speed application.

10. Top Course.

Chances are you'll probably have to rip the last siding course to fit. This top course will have to be face nailed, or a trim board can be attached to cover the siding nails.

If you have any questions regarding this or any other topic, please call Shakertown toll free: 1-800-426-8970.

SHAKERTOWN 1992, Inc.
P.O. Box 400, 1200 Kerron Street.
Winlock, WA 98596